He's Just My Bill

I interrupt this blog to bring the link to Bill on TDS:

Modern Girl's Guide to Travel (Part 3)

12 August (maybe)

Even though we know exciting things are still ahead, it's difficult to leave Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge and Sabi Sands Game Reserve. Especially because we know that we'll spend almost the entire day trying to get to our next destination.

I am on and off planes so often for work, that it barely registers as anything more than a bus ride. But this itinerary was a little ridiculous.

Sabi Sands to Johannesburg
We were picked up mid-safari to get shuttled to the airstrip to start our trip toward Botswana. The great thing about this was that a tracker called Crimson was our driver so we had a mini-safari on the way there We encountered fresh hyena dung (score!), male kudu, a warthog (our first) barreling hell for leather out of a termite mound, and a herd of rhino. Finally on arriving at the airstrip:

Look closely. Yes, those are elephants. On the runway.

In other "how did we get here?" news: the airstrip had a departures lounge. The pictures make it look like a cave and really don't do it justice. It was an oasis in the middle of the bush. Plus, more biltong!

Just about the last thing we expected to see.
A definite step up from the American Airlines Admiral's Club.

Relaxing in the cave/lounge.

Jetting off to Jo-Burg

Johannesburg to Maun
Johannesburg was chaotic, as expected. We didn't get shanghaied this time and we finally found clean socks (with giraffes on them!)

Our flight to Maun was on Air Botswana, which Anne affectionately dubbed "Air Souvlaki" as a throwback to a vacation through Greece where puddle-jumpers were the norm. I would have welcomed a bit of souvlaki to be honest. The food was vile.

On the flight, I noticed a family (mom, dad, 2 boys) who were just too funny. They were very preppy-oozing Lacoste and Todd's. The boys were carbon copies of their dad. I was eavesdropping on them and could hear that although the boys had proper English prep-school accents, mom and dad sounded like they were fresh from the Vineyard.

Jo-burg to Maun, Botswana.
At least this one had real flight attendants.

Maun Airport is, according to some reports, the second-largest airport in Botswana. Scary.

Maun to Moremi Airstrip
After braving the immigration process into Botswana (one person for about 200 people, and three count 'em three forms), we were met by a representative from CC Africa who was delivering us to the flight that would take us to Moremi Game Reserve.

Coincidentally, the Prep Squad was already there, waiting to board the 8-seater flight with us. Not only did they end up being super nice (making me burn with shame for having mocked them for wearing penny loafers and canvas belts), but in one of those mind-blowing small world situations, I discovered that they live ON MY STREET in London.

Hi, Neighbor!

Don't know if you can tell from this picture-
but check out the father-sons matching outfits.

Anne and I did not have matching outfits,
but we did have matching luggage!

Our first glimpse of the Okavango Delta

Disembarking in style

Moremi Airstrip to Sandibe
Once we landed at Moremi Airstrip, we still had a 45-minute drive ahead to get to the Sandibe game lodge. The ride was long, but beautiful. The sun was strong, we were in an open-air rover and I could feel the stale air of the last 2 flights being blown off of me as we cruised along. It's warmer here in Botswana and the mosquitoes buzz along. But thoughts of bug bites, malarial infection, and animal attacks were far from my mind as the rover charged into the water, wheel-high. It's different out here. And that is a very good thing.

Our chariot awaits

The sun in my face, the wind in my hair.

Driving through water

Safari Lodge of the Rich and Famous

On the morning of our last day at Earth Lodge, we had time to do part of the morning game drive, so Ranger Chris set up an "RV" (ranger code for "rendez-vous" ooh lala) which meant that when we pulled over for morning coffee, Stephan-the-Hot came to pick us up and take us to the airstrip.

On the drive, StheH told us about some of the famous people who have recently stayed at Earth Lodge: Anna Kournikova, Wesley Snipes, the King of Spain! Most recently, Ryan Reynolds (sans Alanis, avec screenwiter. hmmm - curious) and Don Cheadle (who surprised them all by booking under a false name).

His favorite was Holly Hunter. As with most celebs, her people had requested that she and her family have totally private game drives, meals, etc. Part of the culture of these places is mixing with new people. When H2 and her group saw how much fun the others were having, they promptly decided to skip the exclusive drives and join some random group. See? Celebrities are just like us!

Dinner in the Boma

Dinner is a big affair at these lodges. You can come in casual dress, but this one night, when we got back from our evening game drive, one of the lodge employees was taking advantage of the mild weather. She was wearing a pair of cute strappy sandals.

I was grungy, unbathed, and on day 4 of the same socks. I'd had it. I decided to break out the one thing that I had frivolously packed: my cute gold wedges. Take that strappy sandals girl!

We made our entrance into the Boma, which is an outdoor area that was historically used to trap animals (I guess in a sense it still is). They had it beautifully lit with fire pits and torches. The food was very good and the wine was even better.

Unlike our first lodge, the Rangers here stay with you through dinner acting as host. Chris was a good dinner companion for us. Anne and I were joking with him about his schedule: 40 days straight of work, then 10 days off. Later, we considered that this might be the perfect job - doing what you love to do every single day, then getting a couple of weeks off every month or so. But then Anne shone the harsh light of reality on the issue: "Yeah, but it's 40 nights in a row of client dinners." Yeah. Strike that idea.

Matching jackets. Awwww.

Too bad you can't see my shoes. They are fab.

Bush Walks and Nosy Elephants

The Earth Lodge offers guided bush walks in addition to the drives. After the morning drive, I was the only one interested in the bush walk, so Ranger Chris, his rifle, and I set off for a one-hour trek. After a mildly worrying "safety review" (including "Stay behind the rifle, so if I have to shoot something I won't accidentally shoot you." eek!), Chris asked me what I was interested in seeing during the walk. These walks normally focus on flora and fauna vs big game, especially since you don't really want to meet any big game while you're on foot. So, only hesitating a moment, I told him what I really wanted to look at: dung.

I know. I know it's gross. But I can't help it. It's so fascinating. I was worried that Chris would be horrified by my interest in all things scatological. But I needn't have worried. In fact, I think he too has a love of animal poo. Off we went, Chris pointing out all kinds of interesting things but also not neglecting "two-sie" specimens where appropriate (elephants, hyena, wildebeests, oh my!).

At one point we saw an elephant in the near-ish distance. I asked Chris if the ellie knew we were around. He thought that he could probably hear us, but since we're downwind he wouldn't be able to pick up our scent.

We also investigated a huge termite mound (abandoned, of course). The termites build them over the course of years. It's amazing how large they get. But eventually, they abandon the mound and something else moves in, usually a warthog.

Speaking of warthogs, Chris was full of useful tips on not getting killed by one. They apparently can charge right through you (literally, breaking you in half) if they are spooked. So, don't spook a warthog, folks. It's just not safe.

Later

On another game drive, we had yet another close encounter of the wild kind. This elephant surprised us by coming closer rather than lumbering off as they usually do.

I didn't use the zoom on this one!

It's OK, Anne. As long as he's got a tree to chomp, he won't bother with you.

Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge

11 August 07 (according to my journal)

When we arrived at Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge, we were surprised because we couldn't actually see it. According to the website: "Earth Lodge is a sanctuary symbolising a new era in luxury South African safari lodges. Sculpted into a slope of the earth, almost invisible in the landscape, the lodge uses texture, light and space to present a lodge like no other. Taking its cue from the surrounding environment, it has been described as the most environmentally sensitive lodge in Africa." And how. It's a very special place. My pictures don't do it justice.

Late lunch at Earth Lodge

This lodge is also run by a couple - the gorgeous Stephan and his equally stunning (and very pregnant) wife, Nadia. Our suite (again, a private structure- we started referring to them as chalets) was gorgeous and comfortable. It was set off a ways from the main lodge, so they drove us there in a golf cart. Since the suites are built into the ground, I was worried that it would be like a cave - I was wrong. Floor to ceiling glass windows make up one whole side of the suite, the side that overlooks the bushveld. A verandah with a plunge pool, Jetsons-meets-Flintstones bathroom with a deep stone tub and absurdly powerful shower, a decanter of port. Anne and I keep looking at each other saying, "Who do we think we are?"

Then we steal the soap.

The view from within our chalet

Anne outside #6

After lunch, we met our Ranger, Chris. He and our new tracker, Zeblon, would be taking care of us over the next two three days. Although our loyalties to Dean and Mampsie remained strong, we had to admit that Chris and Zeb made a great team. It was at Sabi Sabi that we saw our first lions (rounding out the Big 5).

Female lions scoping out the territory

The crazy things nature does. Two trees that have grown together.

On our first morning at Sabi Sabi, our wakeup knock was at 5:30 am. This is my least favorite part of the trip. The time between the first shrills of the Blackberry alarm clock at around 5:20 to the overly chipper "Hello!! Good morning!!" of the wakeup knock to the time when I am feeling alert enough to brush my teeth (about 5:40) are just painful. It's dark and cold. I'm cranky and crusty and I consider telling Chris and Zeb to go scratch. But then I remember: we're going on a drive! So I put on my seven layers of clothing to guard against the winter chill, check to make sure I have fresh batteries for the camera, and it's all good again.

Chris and Zeb find leopard tracks. But they are a day old.

Female kudu

Male waterbuck

White rhino. Unusual because these are both males.

Blue wildebeest and impala. Frozen in terror, I expect.

Do these stripes make my butt look big?

The circle of life

Anne is struck with the urge to paint at Earth Lodge

Chris and Zeb, our heroes!

Sundowner drinks. That's my lucky leopard scarf!

Modern Girl's Guide to Travel (Part 2)

Leaving Simbambili

We were so sad to leave our first game lodge, but excited to see what would come next. When telling fellow travellers that we were heading to Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge, many told us how they'd heard it was fabulous. One guy offered to accompany us and carry our bags (we almost took him up on that).

When we first booked the trip, we didn't understand a lot of the notes in the intinerary. It might say "private transfer." We'd come to find that sometimes that meant a car, sometimes a plane, sometimes a car to a plane to another plane to another plane to a car.

Luckily, the lodge manager would usually sort it out for us while we were out stalking rhinos or sipping on pinotage.

After raiding the lodge curio for long-sleeved t-shirts, woolly caps, and (unsuccessfully) clean socks, we hopped into the waiting SUV to begin the three-hour drive to Sabi Sabi. It's still in the same overall game reserve (known as Sabi Sands) but further south. Sabi Sands borders the Kruger National Park and contains many safari lodges like the ones we stayed in.

Map of Sabi Sands Game Reserve

The World Outside

During the drive, we passed through the small towns of South Africa and for the first time got a glimpse of life outside the carefully planned world of the modern safari traveller.

We'd drive for miles and miles and not see a soul or structure. Then, in clusters, came the towns and the people. We passed modest homes, schools, and local businesses. Some were large and modern, some no more than tin shacks. Some businesses had professionally commissioned signs ("Stop/Shop!") others had hand-lettered placards that got right to the point ("Fruit"). Vendors sat on the side of the road in plastic chairs selling everything from apples to haircuts with optimism (Look Good! Salon!). One sign simply read: SURGERY, hand-written, lopsided, in red paint.

We stopped once for a bathroom break. The driver of course chose a place with a well-stocked curio. This was to become something of a given during our trip - one thing about Anne and me: we always make time for retail.

In the Dark

About halfway through the evening game drives we always find a nice spot to pull over for “sundowners.” Cocktails, conversation -- it’s all quite civilized.

After a few days, I started to look forward to this point in the drive. Not because of the wine (though lovely), biltong (which I first ate only to freak Anne out, then I decided I kind of liked it), or the stunning sunsets (how have I lived without seeing sunsets every day? Do we even have sunsets in New York?).

It was because it meant that soon it would be dark. And in the dark, amazing things happen.

A few words about this particular brand of dark: it’s really, well, dark. Think – no lights around for miles except the headlights of the Rover and a small handheld spot that the tracker shines into trees to try and spot creatures of the night. The rule in the bush is that they only use the light to spot nocturnal animals, which include all of the big cats, hyenas, and some birds. What they won’t do is shine the light on animals that are diurnal (that is, they are most active by day). This includes all of the antelope species, giraffe, and elephant.

One night, we were rumbling along at a slow pace when our ranger cut the lights, turned off the engine, and motioned for all of us to stay quiet. We had come upon a trio of ellies traveling near the road. We happened to stop the car directly beside them. They froze; I held my breath.

There was a large female with two smaller ones. The littlest one was facing the Rover with his ears perked up and trunk extended toward us. If our tracker had leaned over, he could have given the little guy a pat on the head. We’d already been told that elephants, although thoroughly habituated to humans in vehicles, can get spooked in the dark by sudden noises or lights. A panicked ellie is generally considered a Very Bad Thing. If those elephants had charged us they could have trampled the Rover “as easily as we kick a can of Coke,” according to our ranger. We were all so quiet I could hear my own heartbeat.

The mama started snuffling and snorting, signs that with even my limited ranger skills (read: none) I took to mean that she wasn’t too thrilled with the smelly rumbly animal with round feet and ten heads getting so close to her babies. She herded them away from the vehicle and we moved on.

Over the course of our safari adventure, we'd have more close encounters like this. These were the times that our experience somehow seemed more real. There were no photo ops, no conversations, just Us and Them. In the Dark.

Animal Encounters

I've Lost Track of the Days

I can tell I'm finally in full vacation mode. I have no idea what day it is. Luckily, Anne is in charge of the itinerary and reminds me that we're (tearfully) leaving Simbambili to get to our next safari game lodge.

But first: We had enough time to go on the morning game drive with Dean and Mamps where we saw more elephants and visited the hyena cubs we'd discovered the day before. Oddly cute.


On the topic of hyenas, we had a brief encounter with one the other night. We were just finishing up dinner in the lodge, which is a gorgeous, open-air space, when several people gasped in surprise. I turned my head just in time to see the spotted furry rump of a full-grown male hyena leaving the room. I guess he thought he'd pop in to see if there were any leftovers, but decided not to bother when he saw all of us dirty humans in the place.

The game lodges are not fenced in so the animals have free reign of the place. We're warned that we could have face-time with any number of wild beasts, so there you go. Hyena fun fact: their jaws have more crushing power than the jaws of life. So, they can eat almost anything and they especially like to chomp on bones. Hence, their dung is white.

One particularly cool thing we did on our morning game drive was to track two rhinos on foot. We had seen them grazing and after the requisite photo-ops, Dean and Mampsie suggested that we try to "walk the rhino." I was psyched (and I think a little too dumb to be scared).

There were eight of us, plus our tracker and ranger. Dean drove the Rover about 1/4 mile away and gave us our instructions: walk single file behind Mamps, no talking, no photos, do what Mamps does. Sir, yes Sir.


Mamps walked us back to the site. Apparently rhinos are pretty easy to track because they have very poor eyesight. Of course, they weigh about 3000 pounds, so you don't want to startle them. When we got within about 30 yards Mamps bent over forward. We bent over forward and stayed close. Then he crouched. We crouched and moved on. Then, almost crawling, Mamps scaled a termite mound. We crawled and scaled behind him until we were about 10 yards from the rhinos. I was holding my breath, my heart was racing, I think from a combination of the crouching, crawling, and scaling along with the fact that we were STALKING RHINOS. The rhinos, however, were onto us; they skittered away with all the grace that two two-ton tessies can muster. I guess we won't make such great trackers after all.