Sunday, August 26, 2007

We Got Game

8 August

We landed at this tiny airstrip seemingly in the middle of nowhere and were met by 2 guys in a Land Rover who drove us to our first private game reserve, Simbambili. The driver, Lucky, was adorable and kept up a nervous and incomprehensible monologue - we think he was pointing out the sites, but can't be sure.

On the way we saw our first glimpses of "big game" in the wild - a herd of impala. Lucky told us that we'd definitely see the "big 5" (lion, leopard, water buffalo, rhino, and elephant) as well as others like giraffe and zebra.

We weren't exactly sure what to expect when we finally arrived at the lodge, but I can tell you we were not disappointed. Our ranger, Dean, and his gal Jill met us with cold vanilla-infused towels and homemade iced tea. They gave us the quick rundown of the place, including our schedule for the rest of the day, which thankfully started with free time (aka nap time).

The cabins at Simbambili

Lucky and his million-dollar smile
Our cabin is amazing, beautifully decorated with a private verandah overlooking a busy watering hole. There was a huge outdoor lounge bed and a plunge pool (too bad it was too cold to swim!).

The verandah

The schedule for the day includes a sunrise game drive (wake up time 5:00 am!) and an evening game drive that begins at 4:00pm. We found ourselves with a group of 8, including us, which is exactly half of the guests at the lodge. Dean and our tracker, Mamps, took us out in a tricked out Land Rover (open-air with ultra-reinforced undercarriage, a gun rack and a cocktail table) for a 3.5 hour trip around the bush.

Ranger Dean



Mamps the Tracker

Mamps sits on a special chair that is mounted to the hood of the Rover and keenly looks for animals, their tracks or dung, points out passable trails and obstacles and generally tells Dean where to go. Dean drives the Rover and keeps up a running commentary on the animals, including birds and bugs, as well as the surrounding plants and trees. We soon learn that Mamps doesn't say much, but he's like a Zen monk often giving just a small hand gesture to let Dean know that he's spotted something interesting.

Dean and Mamps mostly communicate with each other, and the other ranger/tracker teams over the radio, in Shangaan, also known as Tsonga, one of South Africa's 11 official languages. It makes the drive more mysterious, becuase you never really know what they are following we finally see it, or they decide that they want to tell us.

On this first drive, our first major siting was a herd of older male water buffalo (a bachelor herd) that have not managed to gain control over a breeding herd, and are now essentially on their own. They were hanging around the watering hole directly outside our lodge.

Water buffalo. They remind me of old time judges.

See?

We were driving crazily up and down rocky hills, running over small trees and lord knows how many small animals - when we were suddenly almost in the middle of about 12 elephants. It was incredible- there were 2 really huge females and 2-3 really adorable little ones.

I just can't get over these animals. I've been to zoos before, but this is unreal. How do they exist? My mind is officially blown.

Trio of Ellies


One of my favorite pictures so far.


At the watering hole with the Buffalo

Anne on the Rover

We were wlecomed back each night with hot towels and a glass of port.
Rough life.

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