Omikuji (Fortune)

July 18

Today was a holiday in Japan so the office was closed. [According to Lumay: Third monday of July, Ocean Day (umi no hi): A recently introduced national holiday to celebrate the ocean. The day marks the return of Emperor Meiji from a boat trip to Hokkaido in 1876.] Even though the weather forecast called for rain (again!), it was bright, sunny, and jungle hot all day. I decided to check out Asakusa, Tokyo’s “old downtown.”

This is an area that maintains some of the flavor of old Edo (Tokyo’s original name). There are still many old-fashioned one- and two-storey houses, old women in kimonos, and shrines galore. Of course, this place also attracts many tourists who come to the main temple, Sensoji, to absorb the good-luck incense and buy omiyage (souvenir gifts) for the folks at home.

It only took about 20 minutes on the subway to reach Asakusa. Once again I was struck by how super-efficient the subway system is here. Even on weekends and holidays, the trains run frequently and are insanely clean. My first stop was the tourist info center to get a reliable street map. There was a very friendly, English-speaking volunteer behind the counter. When I asked for the map he said, “Of course, here it is. Now, what you want to do is…” and proceeded to give me an itinerary for the whole day. Who am I to argue with that? [By the way, the only Japanese word I said to him was “arigato” (thanks). To which he immediately replied, “You understand Japanese so well!” Tatema’e, perhaps?

I made my way into the main area of Asakusa via the Nakamise-Dori. There were many rickshaws for hire, offering tours to 1000 yen. I passed. I just can’t imagine making someone haul my big behind all over old Edo in the heat.

After passing through the Kaminarimon Gate, marked with a big red lantern, I found myself on a promenade lined with open-air shops selling everything from rice confections and kimonos to water guns and fake mustaches. I flat out broke the no eating on the street rule when I bought a small bag of delicious peanut-y treats. Mental note to come back and stock up on omiyage before I head home to the US.

The main attraction here is the Sensoji temple. Visitors can make offerings, burn incense, and visit the omikuji (fortune)stations located throughout the temple’s main area. Here’s how it works: you deposit 100 yen (about $1 USD), then shake a container full of bamboo sticks until one falls out of the single hole at the top of the container. Each stick has a Japanese character on it., and you take the corresponding fortune out of a drawer from a cabinet that looks like an old card-catalogue. Of course, I couldn’t find the drawer with the matching character, so a woman behind me kindly pointed it out. My omikuji was this:

“No. 74: BAD FORTUNE. Your request will not be granted. The sick patient is hopeless. The lost article will not be found. The person you wait for will not come. Building a new house and removal are both bad. Marriage of any kind, to start and trip and new employment are all bad.”

Buzz kill. I wondered if I could fish out my dollar. But, not one to tempt fate, I went to the incense stand, paid another 100 yen and threw some burning incense into the huge metal cauldron. I waved some of the incense toward me and wandered off to see the “five-storied pagoda.” According to the guidebooks this is not an ancient structure, it was built in the 70s.

I spent another hour weaving through the shops and side streets and finally stopped for a late lunch of ramen (Chinese noodles). The man at the info counter recommended that I take the water bus back out of Asakusa. It runs down the Sumida river under 12 bridges. There was a tour offered in Japanese and English. Although I think we were short-changed on the English version. The guide would talk for five minutes straight in Japanese then, in English, “This is where the expressways merge” or “Here’s another bridge.” The views weren’t anything special. It didn’t matter though, there was a breeze on the water and the sun was shining. Not a bad way to travel in my opinion.

I got off the boat and tried, foolishly, to walk home. I don’t know if I’ve already mentioned this, but I get lost a lot in Tokyo. Those who have driven with me to client meetings back home know that I’m no good at all with directions in my native tongue, so I’m a disaster in Nihongo. Finally, two good Samaritans pointed me to a train station and I was delivered safely home.

Just lucky I guess.